

Day 46 had it all, folks. Suspense, intrigue, scandal, murder – need I go on?
Actually it had none of these things, but it may as well have.
Before setting out I knew I had a long day ahead of me, but if I had known all the trouble that lay ahead I would have taken the train. Hindsight is 20/20, they say.
The first 30 to 40 km were smooth sailing, relatively speaking. My first indication that the day would be a challenge was that I had a terrible sleep the night before. Not sure why, simply one of those ‘can’t turn off the brain’ situations. Could have been the caffeine I had at 5pm…

The sun was shining in the morning as I set off but steadily the clouds rolled in. I stopped for a coffee at a cute waterside cafe. Around this point I could feel in my bones that rain was impending. It was only a matter of time. Nothing to do but carry on.

The rain hit shortly after I set off and it hit with fury. I stopped to hide under a tree and noticed an old man under the tree in front of me. We waited for what seemed like an eternity, but was likely less than ten minutes. Once it had subsided enough for the local to ride on, I followed his lead.
The rain ebbed and flowed between light sprinkles to striking horizontal bullets.
The worst event of the day was when I had quite a wipe out. I was riding along a narrow road through a town, Grömitz I think, and I felt I was holding back the cars behind me so I wanted to ride up onto the sidewalk. I was going at a pretty decent clip and took too shallow of an angle up onto the curb. My back tire caught and skidded along the curb, preventing my bike from continuing over the curb, but sending me flying onto the sidewalk and into the parking lot on the other side.
Two cars stopped and people came over to see if I was ok. I was ok but, damn, it hurt. I stood up a bit too quickly and was dizzy. I assured them I was okay and I would take a break and such. After some convincing they bid me a nice trip and carried on. I sat on a bench near the scene and tried to deep breathe away the dizziness, windedness, and pain. I had some water and a sandwich and eventually felt better.
I returned to my bike and checked everything. Some scratches on the handlebars. I checked myself. I didn’t want to take anything off because of the rain, but from what was visible I had a rip in the right arm of my Arcteryx jacket and a smaller on of the left arm. Rip jacket. But I think they have lifetime warranties?!
I felt the most pain in my right elbow and right hip/upper thigh. The hands were okay. Thank the sweet baby jeebus for cycling gloves.
I carried on with extreme care and was pretty rattled after that. I went through a bit of a melt down if I am being honest, dear readers.
The next little while consisted of me alternating between screaming, mumbling profanities, ugly crying, and then pep-talking myself out of crying and screaming. This was made worse by the fact that I still had so far to go in my journey to Maribo. I had over 40 km to get to the ferry. And then another 25 after the ferry. I was not in the best of spirits. And the icing on the cake was that it was still raining. Hard.
Finally the pep-talking beat out the screaming, profanity mumbling, ugly crying and I told myself to buck up and when I was one hour away from the ferry I could stop and have a rest / treat. Well, an hour from the ferry came and went and by that time I was feeling a lot better.
During this time I had to traverse a big bridge. The little chain link gate to get from the exterior cycle path to the bridge cycle path was yet another serious obstacle of the day. Trying to hold my bike with one hand while maneuvering the gate with the other resulted in the bike flip-flopping all over (because of the weight of the panniers) and smashing into my recently injured hip. Ah, joy.
Through the gate, finally, I was on the path over the bridge and couldn’t stop to take photos for fear of blowing off it was so windy. The sea was expansive and ominous and majestic as it reached into the distances of the horizon.
Miraculously, once I had crossed to the other side of the bridge I felt exceptionally better. It was a symbolic achievement. Not far now until the ferry terminal in Puttgarden!

The ferry terminal there was very similar to a BC Ferry terminal. In this way it felt very familiar and also like somewhere I certainly did not want to be. But, I took it in stride and made it onto the ferry to Rødby, Denmark leaving within 15 minutes of my arrival!

The sail took 45 minutes and was uneventful. I got some food and read my book. The ferry, too, was similar in many ways to a BC Ferry – i.e. filled to the brim with screaming children and other undesirables.

After getting off the ferry in Denmark I was feeling, mentally and physically, a lot better. The rain had stopped and was replaced by late afternoon sun shining through the clouds. When finding my way to the bike route I nervously tried to avoid an area of white glass gleaming on the road. (I am mentioning this as it comes into the story only too soon).
As I was about 6 km into my 22 km to arrive at my FINAL destination in Maribo, I felt the familiar swivel under foot and realized I had a flat. I instinctively checked the back tire, but seeing it was fine realized it was the front.

Remarkably, I did not have another melt down. I think I was completely melt downed-out from earlier. I just pulled over on the little gravel bike path and calmly went about the tire change. I remembered the blunder of the last flat fix I attempted so I was nervous, and made sure to be careful and meticulous. Also, I used a hand pump rather than those bloody CO2 cartridges.
The joy and happiness I felt when I had successfully changed my tire was probably a bit too much to be warranted for such a simple task, but I was pretty pleased with myself.
I carried on, trying to “tread lightly,” as much as is possible on a bike, and took in the amazing surroundings. Birds were swooping and soaring around me, I was on a little path between apple and berry trees whose leaves arched over top the path, the fields on either side seemed to carry on endlessly. It really was magical. Maybe I was so elated because I was almost at the end of this godforsaken day.

Finally, at about 7pm, I had arrived. The place seemed heavenly. There were goats in a pen next to the house, I peaked my head into a barn with lots of chickens and hens and one very fat pig (dinner?). The door was slightly ajar and this meant the hens could just loiter about the property at will. What a life!

I went inside the door that had a sign for “check in.” I rang the bell that had a sign to “ring bell.” I waited. And I waited. And I waited.
What, I ask, could be the perfect end to the perfect day? Oh yeah, no one there to check you in and give you access to a space to remove your wet and soiled clothing and have a hot shower.
Longer, still, I waited. I rang the bell. I phoned the number listed. I heard voices deep in the bowels of the house and could also hear footsteps intermittently upstairs. I figured they were other guests because clearly if the owner was here they would answer the door. I walked around the house a little bit and ended up in a kitchen where two shirtless, possibly Russian, men were eating. I apologized and explained the situation. They helped me look around and tried to problem solve. Finally one of them said they had seen the owner take his car out earlier and that he would be back soon. Really? Why wouldn’t you start with this statement?

I felt relieved that, at least, eventually I would get into my room. I sat outside, ate some crackers, and tried to have a conversation with a hen.

Just as I had the brilliant realization that I could easily change my socks and shoes now to provide myself a more comfortable waiting situation, a car pulled up and it was my ticket to freedom, or rather to a shower.
I was shown my apartment. It was lovely. It was huge. It had the cutest little writing desk and was well-appointed. I feel like this was the reward for passing the test of what was this day.

I did nothing in the evening other than become one with the sofa and sit at the cute writing desk. It was heavenly. Unfortunately I was still too traumatized to blog about the day. Too soon, too soon.
I snuggled into bed, whinging a bit when I rolled on my right side, ready to get some sleep before heading to Naevsted the next day.
DOTD







































































































