An Idiot Broad Abroad

Day 4: A day at the beach

Two consecutive rest days and I feel well rested indeed. Perhaps too rested. I am getting a little antsy to get back on the bike. I also feel as though I am emulating Mr. Bean when he goes on holiday alone. I am thinking particularly of the scene where he attempts to put his swim trunks on over top of his tweed suit.

Yesterday morning and again this morning I have left my room, locked the door and made sure to leave the “do not disturb” sign hanging on the handle. And each time I have done this the cleaner has seen me and very pleasantly asked me if I want my room cleaned. Today, despite my protests, she asked if I at least wanted new towels. Now most sane people would probably agree to the offer of nice, freshly pressed towels. However, I am currently hiding my bike in my room and simply cannot have anyone enter. There is a bike storage room on the premises, but the hotel sits on a very steep slope and to have to walk to reception to get the bike room key, then down to the locker, then slog back up the hill to reception, then back down the hill to finally get on my bike, so I decided to simply slip it in my room. I know, pretty pathetic for someone who is planning to ride about 75 km tomorrow. Needless to say, my bike is safe and accessible in my room and all of my towels are sufficiently soiled.

I went for another run this morning, but didn’t quite make it up to the lighthouse… Another steep hill. And besides, I had just done it yesterday…

Most of the day was spent beached whaling on the sand and doing a lot of swimming. I had my apple watch going and did some laps in the sea. I was at a different beach than yesterday, called Llafranc, and the water was crystal clear with no corals or big rocks on the bottom. It was extremely refreshing. I swam about 1.2 km, proving to myself that I can at least handle a sprint triathlon swim distance (forget that this is the most buoyant water maybe on earth).

Luck was not so much on my side laying on the beach. I got a textbook loner sunburn, where there is a perfect square of red on the centre of my back where I could not contort my arms to reach and apply sunscreen. I doesn’t hurt much now but it is one of those burns you just know is going to flare up in the middle of the night and have you writhing in agony. Great!

I walked home from the beach and got an ice cream. Flavours = pistachio and chocolate. I don’t want to hear any sass about it. This is the best gelato combo known to mankind.

As you will notice the sea and humidity are doing great things for my hair!

Upon return to my hotel I sat by the pool for a bit and read, drank a beer, and then sorted out the chaos that is my room. I am pretty much set for the ride tomorrow to Cadaqués and am looking forward to it. Calella de Palafrugell has been a great rest stop but it’s time to say adéu!

DOTD

A sneaky DOTD today. But the real question is: dog or shag sofa cushion?

Day 3: Calella de Palafrugell

Rest day! Because I certainly needed it after two days of cycling in this heat…

I spent most of the day trying to pack in doing the things I really enjoyed last time I was here. I went for a run up to the lighthouse. Calling it a “run” may be too kind, it was a walk-run at best. I am not in as good of shape as I was last time I was here…

The lighthouse always reminds me of a faberge egg.

I cycled from Callela de Pala through Palagrufell to get to Cal Fray for lunch. I don’t think anyone really liked me there because I can’t speak Catalan and I was a serious loner. However, once they did decide to give me some attention I was served an amazing meal. Sopa de peix, paella, and flam.

I don’t know for sure but I think I may have been served a mixed half litre of other diners’ wine leftovers. At the end of my drink I found a few fruit flies… I think that this is just the house wine, but I can’t say for sure.

Once I finished cramming myself with delicious food (and wine?) I cycled to Pals. I went into the art studio and store I saw last time that I loved, from artist Anna Agustí Hortangas, and almost spent too much money but decided I would be back again sometime after I have an income. I walked through the pottery store where I purchased my favourite mug. I went inside the church that was built approximately in the year 997. I picked a flower and pressed it in a book. Hah!

I went to the beach when I got back to Calella de Palafrugell and did some “laps”. Last time I was here I couldn’t really swim properly. Obviously I could stay afloat but I didn’t have any technique for front crawl. When I went today it was a totally different experience. It was amazing. The water here makes you so buoyant you barely have to do any work, which is wonderful. But mostly it was amazing to be able to see all the life that is thriving under the water. Corals, fishies, and a few nemo’s here and there! I can’t wait to spend a majority of the day at the beach tomorrow. I am going to swim lots!

DOTD

Spotted early-ish in the day with no real contenders, I present you dog of the day. I pet him and then walked away with a slight tear in my eye. Or maybe that was just my sweat.

Day 2: Calella to Calella de Palafrugell

It is currently 11 pm in Calella de Palafrugell, 24 degrees, and 82% humidity. I have lost half my body weight in sweat. There is barely any reprieve in the evenings. Thank goodness for air conditioning! I felt like I did a good job of staying hydrated today during the ride, yet I think I urinated maybe once and it was the consistency of orange juice. Too much? maybe. probably.

Today was somewhat more manageable temperature-wise, but the climbs were constant through the winding seaside cliffs. It was absolutely gorgeous, but tough. There were a few points where I tried to gear down and there was nothing left and I thought “this is it, I will eventually just stop pedalling, fall directly on my side and maybe over the cliff.” Anyway, it was thrilling! I noticed a number of other cyclists out today for a Saturday ride despite the heat. I got lots of waves, one thumbs up and an old dude yelled something about how hot it was. Yay, bike friends!

I stopped for a cafe con leche in Tossa de Mar and spotted my first potential DOTD. I was pretty desperate for a coffee / sit down break before I headed into the mountain climbs but I miscalculated how far it would be to the next town and ended up having to do some serious riding before coffee.

I stopped lots to take pictures as it was a rather nice view. Once I got to Sant Feliu de Guíxols I switched onto the Eurovelo 8 route. It was not bad but I am more used to riding fast on the roads and sometimes found the detours to get to some beach-side path or out of the way road to be rather circuitous and slow. That being said, there were some areas I would have never found myself which were wonderful. In the end it ended up being a mix of Eurovelo route and aiming and shooting.

Eurovelo 8 trail between Palamós and Calella de Palafrugell.

Arrival to Calella de Palafrugell was obviously fantastic. I had a post ride beer at my hotel and then took a shower for about 45 minutes – trust me, it was necessary.

I took a walk from my hotel toward Oscar’s family’s place to see if I could sneak into their pool (kidding, kidding). But the last time I was here two years ago (and the only reason I know about this hidden seaside gem of a town is because) I was staying with Oscar at his place along with other friends. It is nice to be back but bitter sweet because I do miss everyone I was here with last time.

2 years ago in Calella de Palafrugell with friends – interesting looking sausage we had…

When I strolled along the beach, which was absolutely packed (Saturday afternoon, no wonder), I ran into a live music performance of what I can only guess was traditional Catalan. There were people dancing in a circle and holding hands. The steps they were doing appeared quite simple but when I tried to watch and then replay in my head how to do it I was lost. To be fair, I have no internal rhythm. Those who have witnessed me dance surely can confirm this.

Hot Saturday crowds at the beach. I did not swim today but plan for early morning laps tomorrow!

I enjoyed a drink here and a bite there and have worked on my plans for tomorrow. For a few reasons I have decided to spend a couple of nights here rather than rush off tomorrow morning. Rest days! Mostly, it is just damn hot and I don’t really want to melt on the road. I will probably do some day rides from here.

DOTD

Making up for yesterday’s lack of dogs, today was much more lucrative. I had several in the running and it was a hard choice but I am going with this glorious chocolate boy who I got to pet!

Day 1: Barcelona to Calella

I eased into my cycling extravaganza with an easy little 90 km jaunt in temperature up to 37 degrees. Child’s play, I know.

Okay really though, I am a jelly-doughboy now. I was sweating out of orifices I didn’t even know I had, my thighs are a very sexy sun kissed (read: rash) red, and I have wounds on both knees. Don’t worry! I survived.

Still looking super fresh before leaving the hotel in Barcelona. Yes that is the glistening of sweat on my upper lip already. Setting up the panniers really got me goin’.

I started nice and early out of Barcelona at 8 am and had to adjust a bit to riding with the extra weight of the panniers. This came to a head later in the day when I tried to begin pedalling after a break on a slight – very slight – uphill and fell over because my cleat was already clipped in. This is where one of the knee scrapes developed. Note to self: do not try to start on an uphill, or even a flat surface, and especially not after kilometre 75 of the day.

Everything went quite smoothly out of Barcelona. Luckily there wasn’t too much traffic as it was still early and I could follow other cyclists commuting to work to try to figure out where I could ride / when to cross the street. Without this I am sure it would have taken me double the time.

I stopped for a coffee in La Roca de Vallès and for lunch (featuring stolen hotel sandwiches) in Mataró. Despite refilling my water bottles from fountains in both of these places I was feeling pretty dehydrated and started getting the first ticklings of a headache shortly after lunch.

Refilling water from a fountain – Spain (Catalonia) has a good water fountain set up!

May the little baby jeebus bless my dear mother for leaving me with electrolyte tabs – after adding one to my water bottle I felt quite a lot better and the headache faded as I rode on.

Not a lot of people were out and about in the towns I rode through because of the heat. There was also a haze over the sea whenever I could get a glimpse from up on the mountain roads. Forgot to take a photo. But I did take a shot of a very cute little town up high in the hills.

I don’t remember where this was… but definitely somewhere between Barcelona and Calella…

Upon arrival at my three star hotel in Calella (I don’t know who decides how many stars hotels get, but I am questioning whether or not it should even have any associated with it’s name) I showered the sweat, blood, and tears off my body and made my way to the beach. Ahh, the beach in Calella. Certainly lovely scenery. Masses of human detritus sprawled out baking in the sun. The water littered with people bobbing around like buoys lost at sea. Pasty white Brits abound! Okay, I am being too harsh. By North American standards, Calella is beautiful. It is rather the collection of economical tourist offerings that have tarnished it’s purity. Guilty as charged. I also forgot to take a picture at the beach. I will make up for this by taking lots in Calella de Palafrugell (a much more serene spot that I will ride to tomorrow).

Mandatory post-ride cerveza and olives! Ahh, the olives here are so amazing.

I am sitting in my 0 star room now and am absolutely knackered. I think I will hit the hay early today for a fresh start tomorrow. Here’s hoping for cooler conditions. Hasta mañana, Calella de Palagrugell!

DOTD

Sad to report that I saw very few dogs today and the one that had the most potential for photographing / touching was seen when I was without phone. Instead I will post COTD: crab of the day.

Dalí with a crab. Photo from the Dalí Museum in Figueres last week.

T-minus uno sueño

Tomorrow I set off bright and early for my first day of solo cycle touring! What could possibly go wrong between the current heat wave in Spain, my lack of physical fitness, and my sensitive northern complexion prone to heat rash and chafing?! Despite everything I am excited to get started.

Today was simply a run around day collecting last minute odds and ends to complete my kit to leave Barcelona tomorrow. As per the heat wave, it was rather warm outside. Profuse sweating occurred. Strolling along Passieg de Gracia, Mom bought a new hat so she no longer looks like she is headed for a “boy scout jamboree” as my father so lovingly put it. The highlight of the day for him was taking our soiled clothes to the local ‘La Wash’ coin Laundromat. His idea of rubbing elbows with the locals is to get your washing mixed in with theirs stimulating a confusing yet exciting interaction.

The highlight for me was certainly the lunch we had at La Rita. Thursday is paella day in Barcelona and this spot did not disappoint. It opens at 1 pm and there was a line up already when we arrived at quarter to.

Gazpacho to start. Not pictured was the generous amount of olive oil I poured in.

Most of the afternoon was spent alternating between trying to get various phone features and apps to work and melting by the rooftop pool. I think I have managed to download the correct apps and gpx files to guide me on my ride tomorrow to Calella. I am going to try to set up Strava to track my rides and then post them each day here.

Next, dinner. Aka – more delicious food and drink.

Now I have packed up most of my stuff and laid out my diaper shorts for the early start tomorrow. I am mentally preparing for the sandwich building and stealing that will occur at breakfast in the morning. During the cycling trip with my parents we mastered the art of making the most of the hotel complimentary breakfasts.

Until tomorrow – I shall dream of sandwiches –

DOTD

Today I touched a happy little floof with a nice silky coat!

Adéu Barcelona! Hasta pronto!

Back in Barcelona

As we bid farewell to young Tomithy in Girona this morn (he has now returned to the land of tea and crumpets), we prepared for our own journey back to Barcelona. Immediately upon arrival my parents and I pounded the pavement to visit what seemed like every bike shop in Barcelona. Eventually, the perfect bike and pannier set up was found at Probike. I am super excited because it is a Specialized and quite similar to my bike back at home in Vancouver so it feels just like ‘riding a bike’ – yikes, could not resist. Photos and details to come once it’s all set up.

How joyful I am that I have a bike to ride for the next couple of months! (this is from the old walls around Girona)

Following the busy day of bicycle acquisition I actually rode my new bike home through rush hour traffic in Barcelona. No idea where I was going and it certainly was interesting to navigate the roads. I do think that Barcelona has very good cycling infrastructure and an ample number of dedicated bike lanes, however, without knowing which streets are one-way and which have multi-directional bike lanes it is kind of tough for a new cyclist. I think if you wrapped yourself fully in bubble wrap while learning over a few weeks it would become more comfortable. And invest in a bell.

When I made it back to our hotel and reconvened with my parents we reminisced over the enjoyable holiday we have had as well as the successes of the day.

Also of significant note today was the purchase of a SIM card. For those who are not aware, this is a little plastic chip that you insert into a phone and it makes magic happen via the internet. Of course, like most things I do, this feat was not without serious complications. First I spent nearly an hour in a Vodafone shop waiting to be served. Next, I paid 20 euro for a SIM card and 15 GBs of data later to find out that I can only reload it by going IN PERSON to a Vodafone store each month, queuing up and waiting again to pay 20 euros. Apparently it is too difficult for an international cell phone provider to allow humans to use plastic cards called VISA to load credit onto their phones. Ah well, I do love a challenge.

Now, you may be hoping that the SIM card story is over, but alas, it is not. Once I got over the blow of having to manually update the thing every month I carried on waiting for the data to arrive to my phone to start using the various features that require internet. Eventually after refreshing the screen every few minutes, restarting the phone, taking the SIM card out, gently massaging it, performing reiki on it, whispering sweet nothings into its ear, and returning it inside of the phone – all to no avail – I gave up trying. It was only after one and a half gin and tonics that my mom proposed we switch the SIM card into her cell and see what happens. And lo and behold – hello data! Upon this miraculous discovery I figured my dear mom would suggest I simply take her phone and she replace hers when she returns to Vancouver in two days. Oh how mistaken I was – I was faced with flat out refusal. Okay, fine. I guess I will just put the god forsaken SIM back in my Dad’s old phone and give up on ever being connected to anyone ever again. But wait, returning the SIM to my Dad’s phone and it works… someone please explain this to me.

In summary: I have a functioning cell phone with data. Yet to be sorted out: syncing it with my apple ID and shrinking the text down from extra extra large (sorry dad).

DOTD: Dog of the Day

This is a feature very close to my heart. I will do my very best to not only take a photo of a cute dog each day, but I will try to touch at least one dog per day. Ideally I will take a selfie with a dog. Today I got to touch a little Cavi (cavelier king charles spaniel) just like my old Winnie.

Note that is my hand touching the face of a dog.

Tomorrow will be my final full day in Barcelona and I have some last minute shopping and prep to do before I head out on the 28th. Looking like it is going to be a hot one!

Warming up (it’s hot)

Ok here we go…

Unfortunately this photo is a bit old because the second week I was in Barcelona I had my phone stolen on the metro and along with it all the photos from before and all the potential for future photo taking. I suppose it was my own fault though, really. I had my phone in one open jacket pocket and my wallet in the other. I’m just surprised they didn’t take my wallet as well.

Anyways, for two weeks at the beginning of July I was in Barcelona doing an urban planning field course with UBC and the UPC of Barcelona School of Architecture. It was a lot of fun and a great learning experience!

The team in Barcelona after our final presentations.

I won’t go into too much detail about it because likely none of my fans really want to read about the two weeks of public life study and urban planning analysis. Perhaps I will post this in a different section. Nerd section?

Onto the cycling…

My parental units met me in Barcelona as my course was wrapping up and we prepared ourselves mentally and physically for both the hellish cycling trip we were about to undertake and also the constant exposure to one another for nearly two weeks. I am happy to report we survived. Barely. We cycled an average of 80 km per day, not without significant elevation change (uphill), stopping each evening in a new town. Our route: Barcelona -> Calella -> Caldes de Maravella -> L’Escala -> Figueres -> Joanetes -> Girona.

Despite this being a pretty intense cycling trip, I decided that the best way for me to see the most of Europe this summer was to continue to cycle. So, the plan has been in the works for the last week or so and with the help of my parents we have sorted out how to get me set up with a bike, panniers, gear and such. Most of this will be picked up in Barcelona tomorrow or the next day. Stay tuned! I will be sure to post a horrendous photo of my new diaper shorts for all to enjoy!

Very poor quality family cycling trip photo. Hard to notice but we are all smiling so clearly this is from the first day before we left Barcelona.

In summary and in conclusion

Currently sitting poolside at our hotel in Girona. I am working on this – the most read and profound blog in the world. My dear pasty British friend Tom is sitting next to me working on his phD report. I still don’t really know what it is that he does. His work resembles what I can only imagine would be the result of ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs and partial differential equations procreating.

Here is a picture of Tom and my mom, for reference.

Across the pool my parents lounge and read on their respective electronic devices. The soft spilling water from the pool sets a lovely background to the aggressively loud Catalan rap/movie that the neighbour is watching. This is indeed a real slice of heaven.

Not for long though – stay tuned as I embark on what can only be a series of wild misadventures!