Tag: luxembourg

Sûre I know where I am.

Actually, there was a moment today when I walked into a gas station and couldn’t remember where I was and what language to attempt to poorly communicate in.

Anyway, the map tells me I am in Esch-sur-Sûre, Luxembourg. Here is how I made it:

The dawn broke as it always does and I was to live another day. The first day of the rest of my life. What excitement!

Breakfast at my hotel in Luxembourg was lux. Stolen sandwiches, check. Packed and on the road before 10 am, check. Complete and utter breakdown when I realize my pannier rack was detached on one side, check and check.

I was already planning to head to the bike shop for 10 am when it opened. The issue now was getting there with a bum rack. I didn’t have far to go – maybe 2 km – so I tried to gingerly attach the panniers and ride. I didn’t get too far before I couldn’t handle the sound of metal on metal, pannier rack on chain ring.

I stopped and took the pannier off the affected side. First, I tried resting the pannier on top of the rack, knowing it wouldn’t work, but just to give it a whirl. Obviously, it fell off immediately.

Next, I tried slinging the bag over my shoulder like a purse. This ended perilously. The bag slung from it’s resting place on my back into the path of my pedalling right knee and I had to stop, try not to fall, and reassess.

I would have to sling the bag across my body like a messenger bag and secure it tightly. This led to slightly choking myself the remainder of the ride. I didn’t think it would be much of an issue, but as I was nearing the shop it really wasn’t pleasant to be mildly strangled – surprising as I have heard otherwise from some…

Anyways, that was the point when I went through a slow-motion fall on the side walk next to a busy road. The pannier that was still attached flew off going over a bump, I slowed to a stop, the pannier over my shoulder swung abruptly and the bike was going down, down, down – but it all happened in slow motion and was extremely awkward. The stopped traffic watching this all happen must have been entertained.

I walked the remaining 200 m to the shop and talked to an employee. And by talk, I mean gesticulate wildly and try to communicate the issue. He understood well enough and readied to insert a new bolt into the problematic hole. However, he enlightened me to the fact that the previous bolt was actually still inside the frame, but the head had been sheared off and what remained was stuck. No way to get it out. Now there was a mild panic. Surface level, I remained somewhat calm.

He suggested putting a different rack on that didn’t connect with the frame in the same place. That wouldn’t work because it could only support 20 lbs. My panniers, full of god knows what, are way heavier. Next, he brought out some zap straps. He seemed to be seriously considering how to attach them and then managed to say, the problem is, they are a bit flimsy – yea dude! Oh well, he was trying.

I thought maybe if I could take it to a hardware store they could use some power tools to get the bolt out. I told him and he suggested a different bike shop that was closer that might have the expertise. Phew. I asked if I could leave my bags there and rode over to the other store.

Luckily, the guy working at bike shop number two seemed to think he could either handle it or provide a different solution. Only issue – it wouldn’t be done until the end of the day. No matter, as long as the bike got sorted. I left it there and walked back to the first shop where my bags were.

I asked if they didn’t mind if I left my panniers there for the day because I didn’t want to schlep them around with me all afternoon. No problem! I was mildly questioning my trust in random shopkeepers, but at that point I didn’t really care anymore.

I took the bus, still wearing – and sweating in considerably – my full spandex cycling get-up, to the city centre. The only silver lining of the day is that I could go to the National History and Art Museum, which was closed yesterday. It was an overwhelming display. I had to take a lunch break halfway through my visit. And it was free for students! Yes, I am definitely milking my nearly expired student card. Thanks, UBC!

After the museum, the thought occurred to me that if my bike was ready in the late afternoon I could take the train most of the way to my destination. It had been a long and trying day already and I didn’t know if I could handle a big ride into the evening hours.

So, I went to the central station and asked about taking the train in Luxembourg with a bike. No reservations, no extra charge – great! Only issue – no trains, at all, going in my direction for the next two to three days. Temporarily replaced by bus. Hmm – okay, can I take my bike on the bus? Yes. Great! But only if there is space. Hmm, again. I left and made my way back to bike shop number one pondering my options.

I picked up my panniers and then took the bus to bike shop number two. I hadn’t received a call from the guy at the shop yet, but I also had literally nothing else to do, so I alternated between sitting in the entry area and loitering around the store. I received a phone call from him at about 4:45 pm telling me the bike was fixed and that he would see me soon! He had no idea how soon.

I dawdled a little and used their bathroom before heading over to the service area approximately four minutes later. I was super close when you called, I said. Anyways, the bike was fixed! After some lost in translation dealings over tire pressure and my lock, I was on my way. I don’t know what happened with my lock today but I must have left it somewhere, so I had to buy a new one. Cool.

I decided to give the bus a shot and rode my mended bike, beautifully, to the main station. I got on a bus within 5 minutes and the bus employees were handing out bottles of water because of the heat.

The bus ride was pretty brutal due to rush hour traffic, but we made it eventually to Ettelbruck. The ride from there to my final destination was 18 km and 1 hour and 24 minutes according to Google maps. The terrain looked rather hilly. It was. Joy.

I won’t go into vivid detail about it, but I really was not surprised that the remaining ride would be hellish after the day I had.

When I reached Esch-sur-Sûre there was one final climb up to my hotel. The surroundings were glorious though. The town is deep inside a small green pocket of dense forest with a river encircling it. I arrived near 8 pm when the sun was casting a soft evening glow.

The hotel is called Gourmet and Relax Hotel… so I thought this was it, I would finally be able to relax after a hectic day. Little did I know I was walking into a modern day Fawlty Towers. The evening has been too comical to even be properly angry about.

The matron who checked me in was beside herself because it was clearly the evening dinner rush. She did her best to kindly check me in, while curtly ordering around the bellboy. He appeared to have no idea where my room actually was when he was trying to lead me to it. Once we had doubled back once or twice he found the correct hall and proceeded to try to unlock the door to room 1. I was staying in room 2.

Next, dinner: Since it was already quite late and a town this small surely didn’t have many options, I opted to dine at the hotel. Further Fawlty Towers moments ensued.

The bellboy made a reappearance during this scene in his main role as bread basket deliverer. There were only two waiters plus him and there was a clear hierarchy. The top dog took the orders and then relayed table setting and delivery instructions to the middle man. The middle man then pointed out to bellboy where to take bread. The whole operation was utterly inefficient and hilarious. I was so hungry it was almost hard to appreciate, but nonetheless amazing.

The icing on the cake is that I need to vacate my room by 8:30 tomorrow morning or I will be charged for tomorrow night as well. I guess I should set my alarm for 4 am to make sure I am through the breakfast service in time for check-out and to hit the road – direction: St. Vith, Belgium!

COTD: Cow of the day