Day 12 – 14: Marseille – An Idiot Broad Abroad

It has been utter bliss to spend some time relaxing and catching up with my old friend, Kat, in Marseille. Initially reserved about Marseille, I have come around quite a bit. It is the city with the most hours of sun in all of France, if I am not mistaken, and the least amount of rain. I mean, come on! It is also quite walkable and filled with fabulous architecture. Kat, who is going to Architecture school here, calls Marseille a “living laboratory of architecture.”

Natural pool / swimming area by Vallon des Auffes.

The first full day I was here, Mecredi (Wednesday, for the layperson), we went to the natural swimming pool by the small port near Kat’s house called Vallon des Auffes. We baked in the sun for a bit and splashed around. The remainder of the day was spent going to the history museum. This has the remainder of what was the original port of Marseille along with many ancient Greek and Roman artifacts from up to 2600 years ago!! All of which were found at the site of the old port (where the history museum is now).

I liked this desk at the History museum from around 500 BC.

We dined on the upstairs terrace in the same small port by Kat’s place. I had the Cash of the Day – the product of an unfortunate language translation. I am not sure what it was but it was quite rich for my taste…

On thursday I woke up before Kat and her Mom (who is also visiting Marseille from Canada) and I went for a run to the main train station. It was hot and the run turned into a slow jog / walk. I needed to get my tickets sorted out for my journey to Zürich and I was having issues booking online for my bike. Anyways, after waiting in a very long line and witnessing a slight altercation between the security guard and a hopeful passenger, it was finally my turn to be helped. I made the mistake of asking the woman if she spoke English and she simply said “no.” Umm, okay – any suggestions here, lady? Finally she shrugged in the direction of the woman next to her and I shifted over to wait for this magical English speaking service agent to become available. Meanwhile the next, next customer who comes up to my original non-English speaker was speaking in, wait for it, ENGLISH. And the transaction seemed to flow seamlessly. Well at least I have learned and I won’t make that mistake again.

I ran home and stopped for a coffee and picked up croissants on my way. Later we headed for the ferry that took us to an island about a 20 minute trip off the mainland. We walked up to see the Calanques (like Fjords) which gave a beautiful view of the bright turquoise water against the white stone. Further we trekked in the blistering heat to arrive at a beach. I have to say the trip was worth it because it was the most beautiful water I think I have ever swum in. We stayed there for a few hours and then languidly made our way back.

After some food and a rest, Kat and I readied ourselves to check out the weekly Thursday night art showing that happens by the natural swimming pool I mentioned earlier. This was very cool. Local artists alternate weekly to hang up their work against the brick breakwater and people gather around drinking wine, smoking, laughing and viewing the artwork.

Later we wandered to the bar in the port and reminisced about old times over a bottle of Rosé. The area was packed with people and groups spill out the sides of the terrace onto the stone steps to enjoy their wine and takeaway pizzas. Kat noted that she loves how people of all ages enjoy an evening out – and that they don’t “get lame when they get old.”

Today I hurried off in the morning, again leaving the two sleeping beauties at home. I took the bus to Cathédrale La Major – one of the most ornate cathedrals I have seen so far. Next I found a coffee on my way to Mucem (Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations). This site has an excellent blend of new and old architecture and I spent a long time wandering about the area.

I did a little shopping on my way back toward Kat’s and stopped at Abbaye Saint-Victor. The 2 euro fee to go down into the Crypts was worth it. Sarcophagi galore! And very eery.

Finally I have made my way back to Kat’s and had a little lunch. Her and her mom are out at the moment so I have had time to work on my blog! This evening will be my last in Marseille (this time) and I have picked up some wine and appies for an evening soireé.