Day 9: Sète to Arles

100 km day, baby! First time I have broken into triple digits. Now my body hurts everywhere.

The day was long and trying – but mostly just because of the sheer length of the ride. I find when I am riding solo I don’t stop and take as many breaks as I do when with others. I’m really not one to dither and dally and this can be problematic when I am on marathon rides like Day 9. I even remind myself each morning before I set out to relax, just take it easy, stop lots to take pictures and have a snack – but I still get wound up in my own competitive urge to just get to the destination hah! Ah well, if I keep trying each day I am sure eventually I will slow down and stop to smell the roses. Oh wait, I did do that –

Riding out of Sète in the morning was a big ugly at first but once I reached an area where the landscape opened up into a calm canal lined path it was quite nice. I was on gravel most of the way along the canal. The majority of it was level but here and there some parts were absolutely gnarly. I was just wishing and hoping to make it through with tires intact. And, again, the panniers were working great using my signature napkin fastening technique. Perhaps I need to trademark it.

Before the canal path, I go to turn around in a tight sidewalk once I have realized I have taken the wrong turn (again), I can’t get my foot unclipped fast enough and go down hard on my left knee. So just as the wound on my right knee from last week has pretty much healed I now have a new one on the left!

Following the canal leg of the journey, I came to a pretty bizarre beach resort town. All the hotels and condos were designed like space ship boats. Strange buildings, strange people. I stopped for a coffee at a little cafe in the area, out of necessity rather than for it’s ambiance. Although, it had all I needed: bike rack, coffee, water, toilet.

The rest of the trip after the beach was along roads. Mainly smaller local roads but still decently busy with traffic. Along the way there were several fresh fruit and veggie stands, which I stopped at once or twice for water and fruit. The ride cut through a nature reserve that seemed to just be farmland filled with Mas’s (farmhouses). Still, nice views on the open road and the occasional waft of animal feces.

Arriving into the outskirts of Arles I was a bit concerned it wasn’t going to be that nice, but I was happily corrected once I reached the centre. It is a very beautiful town filled with old stuff, but also a lot of tourists. There are several Roman sights that have UNESCO heritage status, including the Amphitheatre, Roman baths, and Cryptoportiques. It is also where Van Gogh lived for a year shortly before his ear incident.

Along with all the old stuff, there seemed to be a cool progressive art scene in Arles as well. I stumbled upon a free photo exhibit that was pretty edgy. There is a lot of street art and photos pasted on the old walls. Several neat bookshops. I would have been happy to spend another few days here because I think there are a lot of museums as well as cultural events going on. But, alas – I must ride into wine country this afternoon.

I am headed to Mérindol today and will be staying at a B&B / home (I think). Very excited! The check-in isn’t until 5pm so I am going to have a little time to toodle around Arles, maybe find a bike shop to make sure my bike isn’t on the verge of total collapse, and have a nice lunch somewhere along the way.

DOTD

DogS of the day!