Day 5: Calella de Palafrugell to Cadaqués

The weather has cooled down a bit and is hovering in the high 20’s. Certainly beats 37 degrees. Unfortunately, my signature leg rash has still appeared despite the dip in temperature. I went out and purchased some sunscreen with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide in it after I arrived in Cadaqués. It cost me 20 euro and it is designed for babies, so the stuff better work!

Today’s ride was enjoyable but not without minor incident. Several wrong turns at roundabouts occurred, more than the usual 15 to 20. And while I am on the topic of roundabouts – the Europeans love them – I have to admit they are pretty fantastic. Canada should think about planting more of these circular traffic features in cities (I say with absolutely no data or traffic analyses). Plus, they are fun to loop around on a bike.

With the temperatures just about perfect for insects and other flying creatures to waft about in the fragrance, I experienced an awkward run-in with something airborne. In a low traffic road next to a hay field, what I believed to be a flying ant or an perhaps an eagle, flew into my ear and caused me to panic just a little and try to swat / scoop whatever the thing was out of my ear. Next thing I know I am going handlebars first into the hay lined ditch and was projected out of my seat. Luckily, this was probably the best case scenario for location of collision. After I had righted myself and was sort of standing, two men on bikes stopped and asked (in Spanish) if I was alright, etc. One helped me clear the hay debris from between my panniers that had flung off and then reload them onto the rack. All-in-all, not a terrible fall and it could have been worse. What I have learned is to do my best to seal all exposed orifices while cycling through the country. Difficult areas to seal include mouth and nose, what with the breathing and all.

I had been nervous all morning about the impending doom that was the big climb I had to do after about 70 km. My fear was not unwarranted. This was a big boy of a climb. And best of all, I have to do it in the reverse direction tomorrow morning! The views were fantastic though and it felt like a real accomplishment getting to the top!! Especially because this is the climb that my parents and I decided to axe from our ride from L’Escala to Figueres, so now I have done it and they haven’t – hehe!

Upon arrival to Cadaqués I immediately went to my hotel to shower, circumventing the usual post-ride beer. Not to worry, it was simply delayed until after bathing. I sat by the shore and watched the water lap against the rocks and people frolicking on the beach. Cadaqués is of particular interest to me because it is where Salvador Dalí, my fave artist, lived for most of his life.

I even went to Casa Dalí and, wow, it was worth the price of admission! As well as being an amazing artist, I learned that Dalí was a supremely intuitive decorator. He had features all around the house that would enable him to expend as little effort as possible. For example, he had his canvases rigged up on a pulley system that could be adjusted up and down so he could remain sitting and working on his large pieces without having to stand. He had so many chairs in his house, from massive to miniature, you could take rest breaks every few steps. My favourite feature was the positioning of a mirror in a room below his bedroom that reflected the view out of the window so that he could see it from his bed. This way he was apparently the “first Spaniard to see the sun rise every morning.” What a guy! I took so many photos of his home but I will just post a few to give a taste of it.

A beautiful town and a fabulous tour of Dalí’s home, well worth the climb to get here. I am writing before I head out for dinner – I am in the mood for some seafood. I have a feeling it will be fresh!

DOTD

Spot the dog:

Also in Dalí’s house, the bear was a gift from writer, Edward James.